Fire and dance as the show returns to Paris fashion

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Paris (AFP)- With contemporary dance prowess and fiery orbs launched from cranes, two of the most flashy menswear brands brought back some show at Paris Fashion Week on Thursday after a few lackluster years.

Japanese Issey Miyake, known for his innovative and dazzling fashion shows, returned to Paris for the first time since the start of the Covid-19 pandemic.

Directed by Rachid Ouramdane, director of the National Theater of Chaillot, the show brought together models, performers and acrobats who not only strutted around but danced, jumped and climbed the walls.

The outfits were loose enough and easy to pull on, with fresh and vibrant reds, yellows and greens that matched the revival vibe.

The brand had showcased all of its collections via online videos or installations around Paris for the past two years, and was among the last to return to live shows.

“Now that it’s easier to travel the world, we think it’s the perfect time to come back with a full parade,” a spokesperson told AFP.

Meanwhile, under a blazing sun in the courtyard of the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, the American designer Rick Owens has staged a typically striking scene.

Rick Owens is known for his visually impressive runway shows Geoffroy Van der HasseltAFP

It was three giant spheres set on fire, hoisted by a crane and then dropped into the vast basin of the fountain in the art centre.

He described it as a metaphor for a world “disrupted by war and constant online stone-throwing” in the show’s notes.

As for the clothes, there was the hallmark of exaggerated shoulders and grunge glamour, but with some lighter touches in the form of sheer, puffy fabrics.

Some of the pieces used new sustainable materials that have become popular with designers as they try to counter the industry’s abysmal environmental record.

Owens has dressed several of its models with more luminous and transparent pieces
Owens has dressed several of its models with more luminous and transparent pieces Geoffroy VAN DER HASSELTAFP

One used leather made from the discarded scales of the giant pirarucu fish from the Brazilian Amazon.

“(It’s) a skin I use over and over again,” he said in the notes. “Caught as a food source by the indigenous communities of the Amazon rainforest, the skins are then sold as waste, generating income for them.”

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